Not Haider Ackermann. Often suspected or rumored to be a successor to the late great Karl Lagerfeld as a favorite of the Kaiser himself, Ackermann now is heading to helm Tom Ford’s line.
As for who will be Chanel’s next designer, there’s no official word. Recall that Lagerfeld’s successor Virginie Viard abruptly departed (or was dismissed) in early June 2024 and the Maison has been designer-less since then.
Puck’s Lauren Sherman reports that Simon Jacquemus is the current favorite, and has been making presentations to Chanel’s management. Yes, that Jacquemus who like Lagerfeld turns fashion shows into spectacles. Whose handbags vary from itsy bitsy almost invisible to so oversize your favorite adult fits inside. Almost. However, following the departure of former Chanel designer Virginie Viard, Chanel’s President of Fashion Bruno Pavlovsky told Le Figaro (as reported in la conceria) that he didn’t find it “attractive” to appoint a well-known designer. If that holds, perhaps Jacquemus is not the person.
Another name bounced around is John Galliano, formerly of Dior before being fired for antisemitic and other offensive comments. No wallflower himself, Galliano reportedly has been seen at the Chanel archives. Others (perhaps wishfully) suggest Marc Jacobs, who is known to be a Chanel fan and was the artistic director for Louis Vuitton 1997-2014. And Thom Browne’s name also continues to pop up as a possibility.
Moreover, the game of fashion musical chairs continues, as the industry speculates about Hedi Slimane leaving Celine. Valentino adopted Alessandro Michele as its new designer, leading critics to worry about “Guccifying”the brand. And Givenchy still awaits its next creative, since Matthew Williams’ departure last year.
Four months after the abrupt departure of Chanel’s Virginie Viard, there’s been no announcement. The Viard-designed Fall/Winter 2024/25 line drops on September 20, and Paris Fashion Week begins the following week. Chanel’s show Spring/Summer 2025 is scheduled for October 1, as the Maison returns to the Grand Palais for the show, the site of many Lagerfeld extravanzas. The site has been closed in recent years for renovations, funded in part by Chanel.
Does this mean an announcement is on the way? Who will take a bow on October 1? Stay tuned.
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- Maura Carlin posted 1 month ago
- last edited 3 weeks ago