What’s old is new – and what’s really old never went out of style. Born in Paris and shaped over generations, Chanel and Hermès share a legacy steeped in defining rather than following trends. Between them lies a treasure trove of archival designs—some instantly recognizable, others quietly surprising, each one leaving its mark with confidence and character. Proof that true style isn’t just timeless; it evolves, endures, and rewards rediscovery.

The Chanel Golden Years

To talk about vintage Chanel is to look past the obvious. Beyond the Classic Flap and Diana bag lies an archive defined by statement design. The early to mid-1990s, often referred to as Karl Lagerfeld’s golden years as head creative, produced some of the Maison’s most inventive and coveted pieces, blending bold silhouettes with practical elegance. These bags continue to turn heads today, proof of a visionary era that reshaped Chanel while staying true to its iconic codes.

Parent-Child Flap Handbag

What’s better than one Chanel bag? Two in one. The mid-1990s Parent-Child—also known as the Mother-Daughter bag—paired a larger top-handle flap bag with a smaller, detachable mini, perfect for passing down or styling together. Most were crafted in supple quilted lambskin or tweed, appearing in classic neutrals like beige, white, and black, alongside statement variations in metallic gold or green. The two bags were connected via a gold-plated lock, allowing them to be worn together as a bold statement duo or detached to style individually. Departing from the signature chain strap, the bag duo embraced a ladylike Kelly-style top handle, giving it a refined silhouette that set it apart from the Classic Flap. Secured with Lagerfeld’s iconic interlocking CC turn-lock in 24K gold-plated hardware, these rare sets are now few and far between on the resale market. Unfortunately, over the years, many were separated, often sold alone, making an intact Parent-Child bag a truly prized duo.

Supermodel Tote

They don’t call it the Supermodel Tote for nothing. Bursting onto the early ’90s scene, this oversized bag had all the poise, presence, and personality of a runway star. Crafted from supple flat quilted lambskin or caviar leather, it featured a secure zip-top closure with a leather tab and oversized CC turn-lock. Chain-interwoven shoulder straps with leather pads added comfort while maintaining its statement-making style intact. A collector’s dream then and now, the Supermodel Tote has recently sashayed back into the spotlight thanks to Matthieu Blazy, who reimagined its roomy silhouette and iconic detailing for the Spring-Summer 2026 runway.

Duma Backpack

In the ’90s, more was more—especially at Chanel. The Duma Backpack put the CC turn-lock front and center, with a flap top secured by a turn-lock and a smaller front pocket echoing the motif. Crafted from soft quilted lambskin, it maxed out the CC vibe with an oversized stitched CC on its D-shaped base. Chunky chain shoulder straps with leather sections made it adjustable, combining bold, statement-making style with hands-free practicality. Bold, distinctive, and unapologetically Lagerfeld, the Duma Backpack has been revisited over the years and remains in rotation among the Maison’s seasonal offerings.

Vintage Icons of Hermès

While Chanel redefined modern femininity through couture and accessories, Hermès built its reputation on craftsmanship of a different kind. Founded in 1837 as a harness workshop, the Maison’s expertise began with saddlery and equestrian goods—long before handbags became central to its identity. That foundation in leatherwork and precision laid the groundwork for the bags that followed, balancing elegance with ingenuity. Vintage Hermès pieces range from instantly iconic to quietly, lesser-known styles, each carrying the hallmarks of the Maison.

Mini Kelly 20

Long before mini bags dominated wishlists and waitlists, the vintage Mini Kelly had already perfected the art of small-but-mighty design. Produced in the 1990s, the Kelly 20 distilled everything iconic about the Kelly into a compact, impeccably structured silhouette. Crafted in the Sellier construction, it retained the unmistakable codes—sangles, touret fastening, enlarged top handle, while offering a lighter, more playful proportion measuring 7.8 x 5.5 x 3.7 inches that felt ahead of its time. In addition to its practical and detachable shoulder strap with a drop of 31.4 inches, the vintage Mini Kelly 20 also featured a distinctive elongated curved top handle with a drop of 3.5 inches. Often seen in Box Calfskin, with rarer appearances in exotic leathers, the vintage Mini Kelly 20 balanced elegance with ease. Today, these early Mini Kellys are among the most coveted on the resale market, prized not only for their size, but for their place in Hermès’ evolving design story.

Dalvy Bag

While the Birkin and Kelly were making waves, a more understated design was quietly gaining attention. Introduced in 1996, the Dalvy was defined by a trapezoidal silhouette, subtle curves, and a single ladylike top handle. Forgoing the Maison’s signature hardware, it featured an alternative closure: the Clou de Selle. Recognizable by its “Hermès Paris” engraving, the circular cutout in the body of the bag secured onto the hardware, with a leather tab holding everything in place. Most Dalvy bags were crafted from Box Calfskin or Courchevel, with clean architectural lines and discreet hardware, free from overt branding. Its design language resurfaced decades later in the Tablier Sellier, introduced in Fall–Winter 2024, as a contemporary reinterpretation of the Dalvy, offering elongated shoulder straps.

Kelly Sport

The Kelly has taken many forms over the decades, and in 1987 Hermès introduced a sporty version. The Kelly Sport kept the iconic trapezoid silhouette while using both Sellier and Retourne constructions, emphasizing a streamlined North–South profile. Depending on the leather, the look could shift: most were crafted in Box Calfskin, the classic Kelly material, while others appeared in Ardennes, Courchevel, or even exotic Crocodile Porosus. Its open-top design retained signature Kelly details—sangles, touret fastening—while a slim, adjustable strap facilitated shoulder or crossbody wear. Produced in PM and GM sizes, this version was discontinued in 2001.

So, are you team Chanel or team Hermès when it comes to vintage treasures? And which is your favorite vintage icon—one of the classics or a hidden archival gem?

Read related articles:

Navigating the Highly Collectable World of Vintage Chanel

Vintage Vault Vol. 2: 5 Most Coveted Vintage Chanel Bags

Meet the Kellys: The Ultimate Hermès Kelly Dictionary

5 Hermès Bags We Wish They Would Bring Back

Uncovering the Original Price of Your Favorite Luxury Bags & Accessories

6 Hermès Bags We’re Hoping to Manifest Back Into Existence

Chic Hermès Bags You’ll Love That Aren’t A Birkin or Kelly

Meet the Hermès Bag You Didn’t Know You Needed

The Surprising Original Price of Favorite Chanel Items in Your Closet

Love, PurseBop

Published: February 24th, 2026
Updated: February 24th, 2026

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