Chanel is known for its jewelry as much as its fashion and handbags, with a legacy rooted in Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s personal style. Coco, famous for layering multiple strands of pearls, established them as a key code for the Maison – a hallmark that still shapes collections today. Over time, Chanel’s jewelry expanded to include glistening crystal and richly hued Gripoix. Worn with intention, these intricate pieces feel as current today as they did decades ago.
Heritage Auctions turns the focus to that legacy with its upcoming Exceptional Jewels From the Chanel Archive Spotlight Showcase Auction, set for February 5. This carefully curated selection of vintage Chanel underscores how the Maison has consistently blurred the line between costume jewelry and collectible design. Don’t miss your chance to secure these CC treasures.
Collectors and enthusiasts can view the jewels in person during the New York City preview from February 2–4, 2026, 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM ET at Heritage Auctions, 445 Park Avenue. The Heritage Auctions Exceptional Jewels From the Chanel Archive Spotlight Showcase Auction runs through February 5, 2026. Interested bidders can register online for a chance to acquire these rare and iconic pieces of Chanel history.
Chanel in Color: The Art of Gripoix
Chanel’s collaboration with the Parisian glass atelier Gripoix produced some of the Maison’s most coveted costume jewelry. Founded in 1869 by Augustine Gripoix, the atelier perfected the pâte de verre technique, melting and pouring colored glass into molds rather than grinding it. This allowed for richer colors, purer transparency, and intricate shapes, and gave Chanel the freedom to realize bold, painterly designs inspired by Byzantine and Renaissance art.
By the 1920s, the Maison began incorporating Gripoix into its collections, pairing enamel, strass, and faux pearls to create pieces that felt both luxurious and wearable. The resulting jewelry became as much art as accessory, with cascading flowers, graphic crosses, and vibrant color palettes emerging as hallmarks of Chanel’s distinctive style.
Heritage Auctions offers a glimpse into this dazzling archive, where every piece is as much a statement as it is a masterpiece. The Chanel Vintage Gripoix Flower Tassel Necklace, from 1984 is a true showstopper, with delicate strands of clear Gripoix beads cascading from a front-facing floral emblem set with vibrant red Gripoix. Sticking to a bold color theme, the Red & Pink Gripoix Necklace, from the mid-20th century, mirrors 1980s fan-effect beadwork and pairs beautifully with the Vintage Gold-Plated Red Gripoix and Crystal Flower Clip-On Earrings. For a dose of drama, the Chanel Gold Red & Purple Gripoix, Strass, and Faux Pearl Cross Pendant Necklace, 1985, showcases the Maison’s love of crosses, combining red and purple Gripoix with strass and faux pearls for a piece that’s as sculptural as it is wearable. For those drawn to a more monochromatic palette, the Vintage Black & White Gripoix Camellia Choker Necklace offers striking contrast, while the Brushed Gold Gripoix Cross Charm Necklace, from the Fall-Winter 2003 collection, charms with its delicate multicolor Gripoix beads and petite cross charms, a subtler yet equally collectible take on the Maison’s iconic motifs.
Pearls, Crystals, and CC Charms
Chanel pearls have long been at the heart of the jewelry line. From long, layered strands to single, subtle loops, pearls – whether natural, cultured, or expertly crafted from glass – added luster, movement, and elegance to every ensemble. Afterall, no Chanel ensemble was truly finished without a set of pearls.
In the 1950’s, this lustrous tradition was enhanced through Coco’s collaboration with master goldsmith Robert Goossens, known as “Monsieur Bijou.” Goossens introduced rock crystal into Chanel jewelry, blending historical motifs with innovative materials to create pieces that sparkle alongside pearls, adding depth, light, and a touch of modern sophistication.
They may say diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but Chanel pearls offer undeniable CC charm, and Heritage Auctions’ Exceptional Jewels From the Chanel Archive puts this timeless elegance on full display. Layered designs like the Chanel Brushed Silver Faux Pearl & Crystal Double Strand Bow Necklace, Spring-Summer 2016, effortlessly elevate even the most casual ensembles, especially when paired with the Silver Crystal Sphere CC Drop Earrings, which delicately drop and echo the crystal embellishments of the necklace. Meanwhile the Brushed Gold Faux Pearl & Crystal CC Double Strand Necklace, from the Cruise 2020 lineup, makes a bold statement with a pearl-adorned CC emblem front and center. For a touch of sparkle, the Fall-Winter 1993 Chanel Crystal Bow Necklace pairs beautifully with the glistening Vintage Crystal Teardrop Pearl Clip-On Earrings from the same collection – a pearl-perfect finale.
Tell us your top pick and how you’d style it — from Gripoix to pearls, which Chanel jewel would you choose?
Chanel Red & Pink Gripoix Necklace
How to Bid on the Auction
Great news! You do NOT have to be physically at the auction to bid. You can make your selections from the convenience of your own home – in your PJ’s from bed if you want – anytime until February 5, 12:00 PM EST. But, don’t wait until the last minute to get started. Below are the steps for getting into the action.
First, create an account at Heritage Auctions here.
It’s a two-minute, super easy registration process that allows you to login with your Google, YahooMail, Facebook, Apple ID, or PayPal account. The latter is the quickest option.
Second, click on this auction page for access to all of the handbags.
Next, select the item that you want, enter in your bid, and click the button “Place Bid”.
Then, you will be taken to a page titled “Please Confirm Your Bid”. This page will show you the name of the item you’re bidding on, the current bid, and the maximum bid. When you are satisfied with your bid, click on the button marked “Confirm Bid”.
If your bid is the current high bid, you will be notified and given some information on what might happen with your bid over the remainder of the auction. You will also receive a Bid Confirmation notice via email. If your bid is not the current high bid, you will be taken to a page that will notify you of that fact and allow you to place another bid.
For additional information, please visit Heritage Auctions Bidding Tutorial.
Now, suppose you don’t see what you’re quite looking for in this auction. No need to stop looking. In fact, don’t. Heritage Auctions has its very own handbag boutique brimming with beautiful and exclusive purses all year long. Visit here for the hottest selections.
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out – we’ll do our best to help or get you connected to the right team member at Heritage Auctions. Happy bidding!
Read related articles:
Vintage Vault Vol. 1: Navigating the Highly Collectable World of Vintage Chanel
Vintage Vault Vol. 2: 5 Most Coveted Vintage Chanel Bags
Readers Poll: Which Luxury Brand Does Metallic Bags Best?
7 Statement Bags That Will Wow at Every Party
Chanel Métiers d’Art 2026: New Bags, New York Energy
The Chanel Suede Bags We’re Swooning Over
Love, PurseBop
XO
Updated: January 18th, 2026
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