At last. On October 6, Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel arrived — and with it, a defining moment for Paris Fashion Week. As the season reached its crescendo and drew to a close, the Grand Palais once again became the epicenter of fashion’s gaze, where Blazy ushered in a new chapter for the storied Maison. It was a moment that felt like both an ending and a beginning – a grand return to the future of Chanel.
Image courtesy: @chanel
In the days leading up to the show, Chanel maintained the mystery, giving few hints as to what would unfold. Invites arrived, sparking a flurry of social media posts. Each came in a beige box adorned with the signature CC logo. Inside sat a delicate silver-tone chain necklace, its miniature house pendant revealing the date and location through a tiny glass window. The only other glimpse into the collection came via a series of black-and-white photographs by David Bailey — each stark, refined, yet unmistakably Chanel.
Image courtesy: @chanel
Showtime
When the lights finally dimmed and the first models appeared, Blazy’s debut revealed a vision that was at once familiar and entirely new. Beneath the glass dome that has witnessed decades of Chanel history, illuminated planets hung from the ceiling. For the runway, their glow reflected on a glossy, deep-galaxy floor. The otherworldly set transformed the Grand Palais into a cosmic stage, signaling not just a handover, but a reinvention — a Chanel that looks outward, forward, and fully in its own orbit. Welcome to Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel universe.
Image courtesy: @chanel
As Gabrielle Chanel once said, “I love everything that is above: the sky, the moon, I believe in the stars.” For his debut, Blazy carried this celestial fascination forward:
“For this first CHANEL show, I wanted to do something quite universal, like a dream, something outside of time, and I was fascinated by the universe of stars, a theme so dear to the House. We all observe the same sky, and I think it provokes the same emotions in us.”
Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk
Within that otherworldly scene, Blazy unveiled his take on Chanel’s ready-to-wear — a collection rooted in craft, yet reaching toward something freer. Masculine shoulders and easy, low-slung trousers introduced a sense of relaxed precision, while oversized blazers, some cropped, others longline, redefined Chanel’s tailoring codes. And yet, Coco Chanel’s spirit was unmistakably present. The white ensembles edged in black echoed those she once designed and wore herself, while the sharply tailored shirts—created in collaboration with Charvet—paid homage to the menswear she famously donned, and perhaps borrowed, for her own wardrobe. Tweed and boucle fabrics appeared lighter, often paired with bold jewelry. Dresses and skirts carried volume and lightness, adorned with feathers, pleats, and fringe, weaving texture into motion.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Color played a quiet yet powerful role in Blazy’s Chanel universe. The palette mirrored the show’s celestial setting — cool grays, soft silvers, and classic beige fading into fiery reds, deep oranges, and molten golds. Occasional bursts of pale pink and chalky white punctuated the lineup, adding depth and dimension.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Chanel Spring-Summer 2026 Bags
For his inaugural handbag, Blazy took a fresh look at Chanel’s classics, often stripping them of the iconic codes. A flap bag without quilted leather. A lock without the double CC closure. As Blazy told BOF exclusively, “We did bags that are very narrative and bags that are very reduced to the function. I thought it was interesting to strip it out. Why is it Chanel? Because we say it’s Chanel.”
The 2.55 took center stage, appearing well-loved and intentionally worn, the structure moulded as if decades of use had reshaped it. Archival designs such as the Supermodel Tote and icons like the Classic Flap were revisited in new textures and tones. Across the lineup, logos were used sparingly — some barely noticeable, others absent altogether. In a similar vein, signature chain shoulder straps were swapped for leather, offering a modern, understated touch. Yet Blazy still honored Chanel’s hallmarks — bijoux chains, Mademoiselle locks, and signature quilting. It was proof that even the Maison’s most familiar codes could be refreshed while remaining unmistakably Chanel.
Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk
Let’s dive deeper into the reimagining, redesign, and redirection of the House that Coco built.
The 2.55, Reimagined
Few bags are as integral to the Maison’s DNA as Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s original 2.55, designed in 1955. Now 70 years old, it remains a defining symbol of Chanel elegance — and Blazy’s reinterpretation made it feel simultaneously timeless and freshly lived-in. The bag appeared purposefully worn yet intentionally rigid, with its double flap design styled open and structure moulded as if decades of use had naturally shaped it. The quilting was flattened, the double flap design left open, yet it retained its signature details — bijoux chain, Mademoiselle lock, and unmistakable silhouette. This new iteration was presented in mini to maxi sizes, in classic black, tan, and burgundy, alongside silver and gold finishes.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
Image courtesy: @dailyfashion_news
The Minimalist Flap
In Blazy’s new vision, not every Chanel needs signature quilting — and the all-leather flap exemplifies this modern approach. Rendered in smooth, supple leather, the bag forgoes the traditional chain shoulder strap in favor of an adjustable leather double strap threaded through four eyelets, allowing it to mould effortlessly to the body when styled on the shoulder. It retains the Maison’s hallmark Mona Lisa pocket at the back and secures with a petite CC turnlock closure, preserving its instantly recognizable identity. The style, designed to be genderless, was showcased in two sizes — maxi and medium — across a refined palette of brown toned beige (Chanel’s take on Étoupe), gray, burgundy, and black.
Image courtesy: @declanchan
The Suede Flap Bag
A more relaxed take on the Classic Flap, this design features flattened quilting and a softened double-flap construction, allowing the suede to slouch naturally while maintaining Chanel’s signature double-chain shoulder strap and CC turnlock. The style was presented in black, warm rusty orange, and muted gray.
A smaller version was also presented in black.
Image courtesy: @declanchan
The Suede Bowling Bag
Whether you call it a bowling bag or a duffle, this stripped-down suede tote may be one of Blazy’s most practical designs. Oversized with two long top handles and a zipper in softly quilted suede, a small CC logo in silver adorns the front along with an attached hanging CC leather clochette.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
The CC Tote
Chanel introduces a new tote in two sizes. The smaller version features an east-west orientation with elongated rolled top handles for easy shoulder wear, though it was styled handheld on the runway. The larger size retains a more traditional silhouette. Both feature subtly cinched sides with a drawstring, a front flap secured with a CC turnlock, and were presented in gray leather as well as classic black.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
The Croc Tote
Another tote makes its mark, echoing the Maison’s iconic Executive Tote from 2005. Rendered in striking mint-green faux crocodile, the design is sleek and structured, featuring a front slip pocket secured with a CC turnlock. Finished with elongated shoulder straps, the bag is lined in contrasting burgundy.
Image courtesy: @declanchan
The New Super Model Tote
Blazy reimagines the iconic Supermodel Tote from the early to mid-1990s. Crafted in black caviar leather, this oversized model retains the generous proportions of the original, as well as the leather tab and CC turnlock closure. The design has been streamlined by eliminating quilted leather, and the chain-and-leather shoulder straps have been replaced with all-leather straps. The bag also features a zip-top fastening and is finished with metal feet.
Image courtesy: @marianna_hewitt
The Shoulder Classic Flap
Not all that’s new strutted on the runway. Chanel’s global ambassadors Jennie of BLACKPINK and Lily-Rose Depp showcased yet another design. The style is a Classic Flap silhouette reimagined in caviar leather, completely void of quilting. Instead of the signature double chain shoulder straps, the bag features elongated top handles that allow for effortless shoulder wear, cutting through the front flap — a design choice that likely makes accessing the interior a bit tricky. The bag secures with a CC emblem and was seen in pastel yellow on Jennie and light grey on Lily-Rose.
Image courtesy: @jennierubyjane
Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk
Image courtesy: @nomannersmagazine
The Fur Flap Bag
Making a bold statement within an otherwise leather-heavy lineup, the maxi flap bag appeared in plush fur. Horizontal stripes in red, white, and black added texture and visual interest without the need for quilting. The bag is secured with a tiny, understated CC turnlock, almost disappearing amidst the fur. Styled doubled on the shoulder with its chain strap and paired with a matching ensemble, the design completed a playful, tactile look that stood out on the runway.
Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk
The Embellished Flap
And the bag that brings together Blazy’s texture and floral embellishments that stunned in the closing ensemble is a Classic Flap. Rendered without the signature quilting but retaining its CC turnlock and leather-enlaced chain, it offered a fresh, tactile reinterpretation of the timeless silhouette.
Image courtesy: @dailyfashion_news
The CC Messenger
At times, Blazy fully embraces the CC logo, going big and bold. Revisiting vintage inspirations, the new messenger bag is crafted from smooth black leather and features an oversized stitched CC emblem on the front. With a full-flap design, the bag is finished with a wide, adjustable shoulder strap.
The same bag in burgundy was spotted on attendee Kendall Jenner at the runway show.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk
Image courtesy: @dailyfashion_news
The Hobo Bag
Bringing more vintage-inspired vibes, a slouchy hobo bag added a relaxed, effortless feel to the collection. Featuring flat, heritage-style quilting and a roomy silhouette, the single wide shoulder strap is accented with two CC turnlock fastenings, which appear functional for adjusting the length.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
The Drawstring Hobo
A hybrid between a hobo and a bucket bag, this design is crafted from smooth chocolate-brown leather. The top cinches with a drawstring and secures with a CC turnlock, while a double chain shoulder strap and a leather top handle offer versatile carrying options.
The Framed Clutch
A vintage-inspired frame clutch brought minimalist elegance to the lineup. Crafted from smooth leather and with a subtle CC logo, the bag is formed with a structured frame and classic kiss-lock closure. At the top, a metal enamel plate replaces the expected Chanel branding. The clutch was presented in two sizes — medium and large — in burgundy and black, each accented with gold-tone hardware.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
Image courtesy: @dailyfashion_news
Vintage-Inspired Shoulder Bag
A ladylike shoulder bag in embossed black crocodile print offers an east-west design. With an adjustable leather strap and a pop-up gold metal CC at the top, the design features a full front flap that opens over a top-positioned kiss-lock closure, which then opens further like a classic purse.
The bag is finished with a matching embossed croc shoulder strap. Another version appeared in smooth black leather with gold-tone hardware, alongside a gray leather iteration at the Re-See. The smooth leather styles feature a subtle ‘Chanel 31 Rue Cambon’ hot stamp on the front.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
The Trapeze Bag
Continuing the vintage-inspired vibes, this bag fully embraces the signature CC emblem front and center. The trapeze-shaped shoulder bag features triangular gussets that meet at the top, creating a sculptural silhouette that recalls the curved form of the Beauty Bag. Crafted in smooth off-white leather with a slight gray vertical stripe — the same shade used for Blazy’s show invitations — with black trim and logo detail, it secures with a top clasp closure and is finished with a chain shoulder strap.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk
A variation on the same trapeze silhouette offered a more classic interpretation. This version featured Chanel’s signature quilting and a double chain shoulder strap attached through CC-shaped grommets. This style and was presented in black and burgundy in two sizes, both clutched on the runway.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
The Bird Trapeze Bag
And now for something completely different: a trapeze-shaped purse in burgundy leather with a leather-laced chain strap and an ornate top design. Adorned with a small bird perched above, it appears to feature an extended CC kiss-lock closure.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
The Double Face Bag
Chanel famously released a double-face iteration of the Classic Flap, and Blazy now reinterprets this archival element for the present. In one version, the flat-quilted design features front and back flaps, with one side secured by a Mademoiselle lock and the other by a CC turnlock — a playful, truly double-face design. The bag is finished with a double chain shoulder strap, with the black-and-white version showing one chain enlaced in black and the other in white. It was also shown in beige-and-black, with straps in corresponding colors.
For more of a statement, a similar style was also showcased in a vibrant chevron pattern combining burgundy, red, mint green, white, and black. This iteration features dual envelope-style flaps and is finished with a single fixed chain strap.
A more understated version in black-and-white was also presented in the same design.
Image courtesy: @dailyfashion_news
Image courtesy: @dailyfashion_news
Envelope Clutch
A simple black envelope clutch with an embellished chain and delicate double CC closure almost went unnoticed.
Image courtesy: @dailyfashion_news
The Feather Clutch
Echoing the soft, floaty hemlines seen throughout the collection, the feather clutch brought a cloud-like lightness to the lineup. Crafted from what appears to be delicate ostrich feathers in shades of white and beige, the bag is finished with a subtle CC clasp and a delicate chain shoulder strap.
The Egg
This season, Chanel hatched an otherworldly miniaudière shaped like a perfect egg, rendered in an off-white plexiglass with a delicate texture. When opened, the tactile design reveals a small yellow chick perched on a tiny trapeze. The design was presented in two sizes – one reminiscent of a goose egg, the other an ostrich, each clutched close against the body.
While styled as a clutch on the runway, the Egg miniaudière is finished with a delicate chain shoulder strap.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
The Sphere
In a natural extension of the celestial theme, Blazy revisits the iconic Chanel Sphere design, first introduced in the 2024/25 Métiers d’Art collection. This season, the design appears in a deep, planet-like blue and is accented with what appear to be constellation-like gold details and a CC kiss-lock clasp.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
A smaller minaudière in the same spirit also appeared — a compact, oval-shaped version rendered in the same midnight blue hue, adorned with a scattered star motif and secured with a CC clasp at the top.
Box Minaudière
Squaring off as the latest take on a Chanel box, is a white minaudière rectangle with classic Chanel black edging and bearing a small double CC logo.
Image courtesy: Vogue France
What are your first impressions of Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel debut? From the reimagined codes to the new bags, does this feel like the future of the iconic Maison?
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Updated: October 7th, 2025
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