Image courtesy Marie Claire
It’s official: Dior Artistic Director Maria Graziano Chiuri is leaving Dior, after helming the brand for nine years. Rumors have swirled for months that this was in the works, further ignited by the ousting of Kim Jones on the men’s side and replacement by Jonathan Anderson (formerly of sister LVMH brand Loewe). Many expect Anderson to take over the women’s grouping as well, though nothing has yet been announced.
Amidst economic and geopolitical uncertainty, Dior has taken a hit, with revenues reportedly falling, as have those for many luxury brands. The game of fashion musical chairs is well underway, with shifts and switches of head creatives as brands seek to shore up a luxury customer base.
Throughout her tenure, Chiuri brought the female and feminist perspective to Dior. One early collection in 2017 included t-shirts with “We should all be feminists,” using the title of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s book. Is it possible the message no longer resonated with LVMH’s power structure? Perhaps, though, LVMH just had concerns about the bottom line. And sometimes, it is just time for a change.
In announcing that she was stepping down, Chiuri said:
“After nine years, I am leaving @diordelighted to have been given this extraordinary opportunity. I would like to thank Monsieur Arnault for placing his trust in me and Delphine for her support. I am particularly grateful for the work accomplished by my teams and the ateliers. Their talent and expertise allowed me to realize my vision of committed women’s fashion, in close dialogue with several generations of female artists. Together, we have written a remarkable and impactful chapter of which I am immensely proud.”
Beyond Chiuri’s women’s clothing designs that were sometimes militant, sometimes ethereal, Chiuri’s efforts brought handbag lovers back to Dior. She expanded Dior’s offerings beyond the classic Lady Dior (one of Princess Diana’s favorites) introducing several popular styles including the Book Tote, the Bobby, and the 30 Montaigne. Under her lead, the Saddle Bag, originally designed for Dior by Jean-Paul Gaultier, became a must-have for women and men.
So it was fascinating that handbags were virtually absent from her Resort 2026 runway. There were precisely three. That’s three ensembles accessorized with a bag, not three with multiple sitings or versions. One shoulder bag, one clutch, and one cross-body style that was impossible to see, all in pale white-ish shades.
Image courtesy: voguerunway.com Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com
Image courtesy: voguerunway.com Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com
Image courtesy: voguerunway.com Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com
The lack of handbags in Chiuri’s final Dior grouping was curious. It could mean something, or nothing. Perhaps this is part of the “beautiful confusion” Chiuri sought as she showed both ready-to-wear and haute couture designs from different eras in a sea of mostly white and sprinkles of black. The color scheme extended to guest attire as women attendees were asked to wear white, and men to wear black. Chiuri wore black for her final bow.
What do you think? Was this a fitting departure for Dior’s first female designer?
As Dior stands at another creative crossroads, the fashion world watches closely. Whether Jonathan Anderson or another visionary steps in, they will inherit both a legacy of innovation and a mandate to reengage a shifting luxury market. One thing is certain: Chiuri’s influence—on Dior and on the fashion industry at large—will resonate far beyond her final Dior show.
Love, PurseBop
XO
Updated: May 30th, 2025
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