Hermès Unveils Its Biggest Haute Jewelry Collection in 16 Years

While Hermès is reportedly preparing for its long-awaited Haute Couture debut, the house marked the opening of Paris Haute Couture Week in a different way this season. On the eve of the shows, Hermès transformed the Musée des Arts Décoratifs into an immersive equestrian-inspired world for the unveiling of Into the Horsescape, the house’s latest Haute Bijouterie collection.

Designed by Hermès Creative Director of Fine Jewelry Pierre Hardy, the collection comprises ninety one-of-a-kind creations and is said to be the largest high jewelry presentation the house has staged since launching the category in 2010. Drawing on the house’s equestrian heritage, Into the Horsescape explores the many symbols, tools, and traditions that have shaped Hermès since its origins as a harness maker nearly two centuries ago.

Chevauchee Necklace. Image courtesy: Hermès

Throughout the collection, familiar equestrian references appear in both literal and abstract forms. While “the horse itself is barely seen,” according to Pierre Hardy, “its symbolism lives within each piece, sometimes even taking on a metaphorical quality.” Some creations evoke the horse itself, while others reinterpret the objects that surround it. Horse bits become sculptural settings for exceptional gemstones; lassos transform into sweeping diamond-set curves; and stirrups, harness hardware, and blacksmith’s nails are elevated into intricate jewelry compositions.

Color and material play an equally important role in the collection’s narrative. Black jade and Tahitian pearls evoke the sheen of hooves, while rose gold paired with brown diamonds recall the warmth and texture of a horse’s coat. Elsewhere, pavé-set diamonds create fluid ribbons of light that appear almost weightless, reinforcing the collection’s emphasis on movement and freedom.

Image courtesy: @delphine.perroy.mad

Image courtesy: @veronikaheilbrunner

Image courtesy: @veronikaheilbrunner

Standout styles include the Étreintes necklace, which pairs pavé-diamond bridle detailing with a classic pendant style centered around a striking emerald. Meanwhile, the more contemporary Centaure necklace translates the shape of a horse hoof into a graphic, torque-style statement piece.