The Paris Men’s Fashion Week schedule looked a little different for Hermès this season. Rather than staging a customary runway show, the House unveiled a pared back presentation of its Spring-Summer 2027 Men’s collection, created by its in-house design team. The shift comes during a period of transition for Hermès menswear, following the departure of longtime artistic director Véronique Nichanian and ahead of Grace Wales Bonner‘s debut collection in January 2027.

Hermès reins it in for Spring-Summer 2027. Taking a single silk scarf as its point of departure, the studio team’s collection embraces a quieter approach, drawing inspiration from the landscapes of Southern France. The result is a study in ease and precision, where effortless layering defines the silhouette and soft tailoring sits alongside breezy silk shirts detailed with equestrian and Western-inspired motifs.

Of course, no Hermès collection would be complete without leather. For Spring-Summer 2027, the house reworks the material with a lighter touch, punctuating jackets, footwear, and accessories with intricate perforations and openwork detailing. Elsewhere, lightweight knitwear plays a starring role, from finely knitted zip-up jackets to openwork cardigans. The color palette is grounded in soft neutrals with Hermès’ signature Gold, alongside slate gray, and soft beige – lifted by restrained accents of icy blue, muted mauve, and pale pink.

That restrained approach carried through into accessories, where the collection’s focus on lightness, craft, and utility was echoed in a tightly edited selection of bags.

Featured in the Spring-Summer 2027 photoshoot, the HAC takes on a new look. Reimagined with a cargo-inspired sensibility, the statement style features intricate leatherwork across the front and sides, forming openwork pocket detailing. Delicate braided accents frame the design along the top and base, adding an additional dose of texture. Whether this reworked version is a fully realized HAC or an intricately designed heavy-weight cover remains to be seen.

Another HAC iteration featured Volynka leather. Also known as Russian leather, the material is defined by its distinctive cross-hatched grain and subtly waxed finish. Rendered in a deep brown tone reminiscent of Noisette, the design is finished with palladium hardware for a clean.

A new bucket bag appeared at the presentation, drawing on the utilitarian construction language of both the Herbag and the Picotin. Boasting a relaxed bucket-style silhouette, the design is built in a Herbag-like construction of Militaire canvas paired with Hunter cowhide trim for reinforcement. A Clou de Selle closure anchors the top, while a canvas loop handle completes the pared-back design. 

A staple within the Hermès menswear universe, the Garden Party Voyage returns with a seasonal update. Crafted in soft grey H Plume canvas, the spacious tote is trimmed with slate-grey Negonda calfskin. For the next season, the silhouette is refreshed with a graphic motif reminiscent of a horse carriage wheel, referencing Hermès’ equestrian heritage. 

After first debuting on the Spring-Summer 2026 runway, the H Canvas Hobo returns. Crafted in H canvas with a structured leather base extending partway up the body, the design balances softness with subtle structure. A wide single shoulder strap extends from the body of the bag, while a ring D-detail and hanging clochette add a utilitarian touch. At the front, a Hermès padlock is suspended from a slim leather tab that threads through a loop, echoing the weighted closure system of the Picotin.

Elsewhere, the collection’s easy and breezy language was distilled into smaller gestures, with footwear, accessories, and silk. 

Footwear followed the same design language as the ready-to-wear, with classic brogues reworked into minimalist silhouettes. Stripped of lacing, the original perforations remain across the upper, with the addition of detailing across the square toe box. The look is finished with a vivid orange sole – a H-coded alternative to Louboutin.

Straying from the house’s signature Chypre silhouette, a new style puts the ‘H’ front and center. Crafted in supple suede, the design is defined by bold ‘H’ strap detailing and is secured with a heel strap and buckle fastening. Rendered in a sandy tone reminiscent of Vanille, the style is finished with a contrasting black footbed.

Another style arrived in black leather, with crossover strap detailing and a clean square toe. 

Subtle elevation continues across the men’s belts, where classic neutral straps are detailed with four belt keepers in contrasting tonal shades. A palladium metal keeper completes the design, adding a touch of hardware.

Silk accessories continue this same attention to detail. Polka-dot ties introduce a classic touch, while Twilly styles rework the motif into a dot-and-‘H’ cut-out design. 

Jewelry reworks the iconic Olympe silhouette into a graphic and abstract motif, softening the overt ‘H’ motif in favour of a minimal form across bracelets and rings. The design extends the letter around the wrist or finger in a vertical wrap, rather than presenting it as a flat horizontal motif. Iterations span polished palladium, leather-accented versions, and styles finished with enamel detailing.

Pins round out the accessories grouping, bringing a touch of equestrian charm. Featuring a hand-drawn horse head alongside a second design depicting a horse in motion, reminiscent of Jean-Louis Sauvat’s La Danse des Chevaux. Presented individually, the pins were also styled on jacket lapels and cardigans.

What do you make of Hermès’ studio-designed Spring-Summer 2027 collection, and are you looking forward to Grace Wales Bonner taking the reins?

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