The new Dior era with Jonathan Anderson at the helm kicked off with his first show for the Maison – Men’s Summer 2026. In 2025, Anderson was tagged as head designer for Dior’s Men’s collections, and, two months later, in June 2025, he became the new Creative Director for Dior’s Women, Men, and Haute Couture. It is the first time in 70 years, since Monsieur Christian Dior, that one person is in charge of all fashion.
Image courtesy: @dior
Over the last days and the hours before the show, Dior gave hints of what was to come. Two images of book totes. The official invitation consisting of a ceramic plate with three eggs, no doubt representing Mr. Dior’s allegedly favorite meal. Teasing a classic preppy look of a blue and white dress shirt and striped tie sported by soccer (ok football) star and Dior ambassador Kylian Mbappé, along with a not-so-dissimilar image of American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat done by Andy Warhol. Continuing the Warhol reference, Dior also shared Warhol’s photo of socialite Lee Radziwill. According to Anderson:
“As I began exploring my vision for the House, I kept returning to these photographs of Radziwill and Basquiat who are both, for me, the epitome of style. Warhol manages to capture that natural instinct in pictures that are almost impossible to date, conveying a quality that’s as contemporary and relevant now as it was then. Sometimes you’re just born modern.”
Not rejecting the history of Dior, but rather, “decoding the language of the House in order to recode it.” And then to “focus on style, which is a way of being, of putting things together, of behaving and appearing.”
Image courtesy: Vogue
The pre-show film took viewers to Versailles, featuring actor Sam Nivola, outside along the river for flora and fauna, and inside for the art, architecture, and decor, all of which was reflected ultimately in the fashion.
With the Cathedral of Saint-Louis-des-Invalides as the backdrop for celebrity entrance, juxtaposed against a street view, the show took place in a gallery-sized room in Les Invalides. Guests were seated on what appeared to be wood squares, among blank neutral walls, save for one small still-life painting of flowers in a vase.
Image courtesy: Lampoon Magazine
Fashion-wise, Anderson played with proportions, making designs both sporty and dandy-like. Shorts and jackets were very much in vogue, all shown in both long and short lengths. The first look paired a blazer with long balloon-like cargo shorts, which resembled a ball gown. The tweed jacket ballooned around the hips with a lightly cinched waist, a nod to the famous women’s Dior Bar jacket. Fisherman sandals with striped athletic crew socks completed the look, suggesting not to take it all so seriously.
Image courtesy: Vogue
Other shorts ensembles referenced American sportswear, emphasized by the pairing with sneakers. Full length trousers and jeans were on display; Anderson took his bow to a standing ovation wearing jeans and a plaid button down, much like chef Bobby Flay on his cooking competition show “Beat Bobby Flay.”
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: vogue runway/Daniele Oberrauch/Gorunway.com
Evidently influenced by the Versailles decor, scarf-like long fringes, and capes (and coats worn as capes), completed outfits. Some longer coats sparkled. Ascot-like ties with bows in front finished many looks. And there was that flowered vest.
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: vogue runway/Daniele Oberrauch/Gorunway.com
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway/Danielle Oberrauch/Gorunway.com
As for the handbags, were they new styles? Not so much, but most fashionistas were looking for the clothing. Besides, it is a men’s grouping, and messenger-bag styles dominate, whether worn across the front or back, or on the shoulder. With a prominent CD buckle design, messenger bags appeared in neutral-toned fabrics, including the Dior Oblique pattern, and a bright yellow.
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
The iconic Dior Book Tote, first introduced by Maria Grazia Chiuri in Spring/Summer 2018, has been reimagined through Jonathan Anderson’s distinctive lens. Teased ahead of the show on Instagram, Anderson’s take embraces the original Dior logo, replacing the capitalized branding of the Chiuri era across both accessories and clothing. Adding a playful twist, he gave the Book Tote a tongue-in-cheek spin, literally referencing literary classics with designs including Dracula, Dangerous Liaisons, and Dior by Dior.
Image courtesy: @dior
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: @dior
Image courtesy: Vogue
Image courtesy: Vogue
Other utilitarian styles include a top-handle tote with a long strap and a duffle bag. The tote and duffle are crafted from chocolate brown suede, with the duffle featuring signature cannage stitch detailing.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
As for backpacks, there’s the sports luxe nylon version with an almost wood-effect finish in dark green, complemented by matching leather trim. Additionally, there’s a Dior Oblique backpack in brown, detailed with contrasting black leather accents.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
And now for something different, the newest look – carried by A$AP Rocky as he entered the venue with Rihanna – was a handheld bag decorated with tassel fringe, akin to what one sees (on draperies at Versailles).
The bag appeared on the runway in several shades, including cornflower blue, ecru, and red. It features the iconic Dior charms, similar to those on the Lady Dior bag, in a mix of gold-tone and tone-on-tone finishes, adding a subtle touch of detail.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
What do you think of Jonathan Anderson’s fresh take on Dior — does his blend of heritage and modern playfulness set a bold new direction for the house?
Image courtesy: Vogue
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Updated: June 28th, 2025
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