“Boys Wanna Be Her” underpinned Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2027 collection, steering its overall mood and attitude. Presented at the Frick Museum on Fifth Avenue – shortly after the institution’s reopening following a five-year renovation – the setting brought together Gilded Age opulence and Ghesquière’s contemporary, cross-era vision.
Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton
The show unfolded in a deliberately disjointed rhythm, with masculine-leaning silhouettes, structured leather, and exaggerated volumes defining much of the collection. Rather than refining proportion, Ghesquière pushed it further, creating shapes that felt intentionally oversized and uneven. The palette added to that effect. Acidic tones were used alongside darker colors, giving the collection a more unsettled, high-contrast feel.
Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton
A collaboration with Keith Haring ran through the collection. The opening look featured a vintage Louis Vuitton suitcase from the archives, marked with Haring’s 1984 drawings of his signature figures. It set the tone for a collaboration that also extended into reworked versions of classic Louis Vuitton silhouettes, including the Speedy, Alma, as well as select footwear.
Beyond the Haring partnership, the handbag offering remained relatively focused, balancing revived house classics with more unusual, sculptural runway pieces. Here’s a closer look at the standout styles from the Cruise 2027 lineup.
Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton x Keith Haring
Beyond the vintage Louis Vuitton luggage that opened the show, a miniature rendition followed, echoing the same worn-in effect in a scaled-down format. Across its body, the same Keith Haring design was applied, translating the archival reference into a compact, contemporary version.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Next up to receive the Haring treatment were the Speedy and Alma. As part of the Keith Haring collaboration, both signature silhouettes were reworked with his playful figure motifs.
Rendered in classic Monogram, the Speedy is covered with Haring’s figures in acid yellow, each outlined in black leather for added texture. In contrast to its usual finish, the Vachetta trim is replaced with black leather, creating a sharper, more tonal effect.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
The Alma takes a different approach, with Haring’s figures in vivid orange moving across the Monogram canvas body, outlined in black. While its top handles also receive the same graphic treatment, the base retains its classic Vachetta leather trim, grounding the more expressive surface in a familiar finish.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
There were also hard-sided luggage pieces. A rectangular white Monogram canvas mini trunk appeared on the runway, finished with contrasting black leather trim that echoed its black Haring “Rain Dance” motif.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Beyond the classic styles, the collaboration also included a vinyl record reworked as a flat clutch with a zip-around closure. At its center, Haring’s figure motif is set into the design. With its almost completely flat profile, the object leaves little practical space inside, more suited as an elaborate card holder than anything else – leaning firmly into concept over function.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Pop Art Bags
Continuing the pop art direction, Louis Vuitton introduced a series of hard-sided bags with an acrylic-like finish. Among them, the Alma appeared in a teal shade, defined by a bold black outline that traced its signature top handles and Vachetta trim, heightening its graphic, illustration-like effect. Joining the lineup was a style reminiscent of the Capucines silhouette, rendered in orange. Each piece was finished with an “Louis Vuitton” signature at the front.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Beyond the structured styles, a softer interpretation of the same direction also appeared on the runway. The Alma Souple was reimagined in brick-colored grained leather, with a more painterly application of black graphic linework that emphasised its curved top and handles. The “Louis Vuitton” signature finished the look at the front. Carried by hand on the runway, the style also featured a detachable Monogram canvas Toron handle.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Papillon-Inspired Trunk Bags
A style reminiscent of the Papillon trunk appeared on the runway in striking shades of purple and orange. Crafted in smooth leather, the hard-sided cylindrical east-west bags featured a hinge opening reinforced with metal trim and an S-lock closure. Vachetta detailing was removed entirely in favour of tonal finishes, giving the piece a more streamlined look. The mini trunks were carried by dual top handles on the runway.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Vintage Inspired Bag
Channeling a design language more synonymous with Celine than Louis Vuitton, a new bag appeared on the runway with a distinctly pared-back, vintage feel. Crafted in smooth leather, the design featured an engraved gold-tone LV bar at the top and secured with a discreet kick-lock closure. Finished with a slim detachable strap, it could be worn on the shoulder, carried by hand on the runway, or styled as a clutch. The style was presented in navy, rich brown, and black.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Another hardware-heavy, monogram-free design followed. Rendered in beige suede, the rectangular silhouette featured trunk-inspired detailing, including metal-reinforced corners and an S-lock closure, and Monogram Toron handle.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Petite Malle
The Petite Malle takes on a puffy form for Cruise 2027, echoing styles seen in the Pre-Fall 2024 collection. This season’s versions were presented in metallic shades of silver and deep purple, with a soft, inflated-looking finish. Each piece was finished with a wide, short top handle that appears to be detachable.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
There was also a single classic hard-sided Petite Malle, presented in a statement combination of red, white, and gold. The top trim featured alternating white and gold triangles pointing inward, echoing the geometric pattern of a backgammon board, while antique-gold chain shoulder straps added a refreshed look for the design.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Inside Out Monogram
Offering a glimpse into a New Yorker’s handbag, Louis Vuitton introduced a series of object-adorned designs. Echoing what might be found inside a bag, the Speedy and Side Trunk were presented in white Monogram canvas, covered in playful illustrations of everyday items including lighters, keys, and dollar bills. These were paired with applied leather elements depicting soda cans and bottle caps, adding a more textured, dimensional finish.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
S-Lock Shoulder Bag
A new style echoes the Dauphine in a sleek shoulder bag form. Presented in both Monogram canvas and black leather, the soft design features a leather-trimmed frame, S-lock closure, and Toron handle. The finishing touch comes in the form of an LV-engraved padlock attached to the D-ring.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Canvas Tote
Not dissimilar to the Slouchy PM, Louis Vuitton introduced a slouchy canvas tote on the runway. Rendered in a deep beige, the design featured Monogram canvas trim and a short Toron top handle. Finished with a zip-top closure, the bag had a deliberately relaxed, heavily slouched silhouette.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Monogram Canvas Tote
A Monogram canvas tote also joined the lineup. Designed with an open-top silhouette, the single-handle style featured aged Vachetta leather trim, along with an LV luggage tag.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Monogram Canvas Shoulder Bag
A smaller shoulder bag introduced a Noughties-inspired direction to the lineup. Designed with an elongated pochette-style silhouette, it featured a flap-front closure and a sleek, streamlined shape. Finished in aged Vachetta leather, the style was carried by its Toron handle on the runway.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Column-Inspired Bags
Another group of hard-sided pieces was designed in the form of column-like structures. Rendered in a combination of leather and what appeared to be wood, the bags featured a cylindrical north–south body with wooden base and top sections. A band wrapped around the center of each piece, fastening at the front with an S-lock closure. Finished with a leather top handle and carried by hand on the runway, the designs appeared in shades of brown and grey.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Crystal Takeout Box
One of the most unexpected accessories in the lineup took the form of a Chinese takeaway box, reworked entirely in crystal embellishment and finished with a glittering red apple detail. Carried on the runway with a silver-tone top handle, it transformed a familiar food container into a decorative evening piece.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Car Headlight Bag
Another unusual offering came in the form of a car headlight embedded into a rectangular, trunk-like bag. inished with a slim, short leather strap, it was carried by hand on the runway.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Soda Can Wristlet
Rounding out the offering, a soda can was reimagined as a metallic red bag with a hinge opening, stripped of any branding. Finished with a detachable Monogram canvas wristlet strap, the style was draped from the model’s wrist on the runway.
Image courtesy: Vogue Runway
Do you prefer the bold energy of the Keith Haring collaboration, or do you still gravitate towards the timeless appeal of Louis Vuitton’s classic Monogram icons?
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