Pharrell’s Debut at Louis Vuitton Men’s 2024 Spring Summer: A Look at the LoVers Bags

Louis Vuitton took over Paris during Men’s Fashion Week with its highly anticipated show on June 20, 2023, at the illuminated Pont Neuf bridge in the city center. Pharrell William’s debut collection has been eagerly anticipated since he was announced as the new men’s creative director of the brand back in February 2023.

Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton

Pharrell’s journey to the design head of Louis Vuitton has evolved. Among his notable contributions to the brand, the collaboration with Louis Vuitton and Nigo in 2004 stands out – the iconic Millionaire sunglasses collection. Now, almost 20 years later, Pharrell assumes the role of creative director, following in the footsteps of the late Virgil Abloh. In a statement introducing Pharell as Men’s Creative Director, Louis Vuitton’s Chairman and CEO, Pietro Beccari said:

“I am glad to welcome Pharrell back home, after our collaborations in 2004 and 2008 for Louis Vuitton, as our new Men’s Creative Director. His creative vision beyond fashion will undoubtedly lead Louis Vuitton towards a new and very exciting chapter.”

In the week prior to the show, Pharrell took to Instagram to share a photograph of himself standing in front of a massive billboard for his debut Louis Vuitton campaign. The campaign showcases a heavily pregnant Rihanna carrying LV’s Keepall travel bag in a vibrant array of new colors. 

Image courtesy: @pharrell

Over the following days, Louis Vuitton continued to share previews of the new version of the beloved monogram Speedy bag. Moments before the show, Vogue released an exclusive interview with Pharrell Williams, taking a first look at the debut collection. The slouchy yellow leather Speedy was in the spotlight, as Pharrell spoke to Vogue about his new design:

“I’m gonna show you, first of all, the Speedy. One of the things I wanted to do when I got it. If you noticed Speedy’s never collapse like this because they’re usually made with a treated canvas. But this is a super duper soft leather as you can see – you can pinch it,” he added, “you gonna have to pay for it too though!”

Image courtesy: Vogue

More on this statement Speedy later on… With anticipation building… At last, it was showtime. 

Showtime

Iconically Parisian, the men’s Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2024 collection took place center stage in the city of light. The historic Pont Neuf Bridge in Paris was given an LV makeover for this collection – adorned in the brand’s Damier motif. This glowing gold bridge in the heart of Paris set the scene for this hotly anticipated (and fashionably late!) runway.

Image courtesy: @vision_meets_design

As expected, the event was a star-studded occasion. The front row was brimming with A-list celebrities, including Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Kim Kardashian, and Jared Leto. Louis Vuitton global brand ambassadors Zendaya and Jackson Wang were also in attendance. The exclusive guestlist didn’t stop there, with Megan Thee Stallion, Offset, Tyler the Creator, LeBron James, Lewis Hamilton, and Willow and Jaden Smith  – it was certainly the hottest ticket in town.

Image courtesy: @beyonce

Image courtesy: @voguemagazine

Kicking off men’s fashion week in style – the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2024 collection is anything but subtle. The theme of the collection is “Lovers.” Speaking to Vogue ahead of the show, Pharrell commented on his theme, “LV is for Louis Vuitton, but it’s also for lovers, you know: lovers of the moment, lovers of detail, lovers of this time, and people who want to absolutely squeeze the best out of life, down to the last drop.” 

Image courtesy: @skateboard

Big and bold was certainly the aim of the game for Pharrell’s debut. William’s visionary approach is certainly a new and fresh take on the heritage brand. The collection incorporated the brand’s signature leathers and designs into modern and futuristic looks. There was an emphasis on fabrication – incorporating and revitalizing the Maison’s iconic Epi leather into numerous looks, as well as the new all-leather Speedy. Reimagined Damier prints featured futuristic themes with pixelated graphic designs and bright, oversized styles. The designs were practical, luxurious, and most importantly, wearable. And while this is a new chapter for Louis Vuitton, the collection remains true to the brand – Pharrell’s innovative approach has certainly left his mark.

Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton

When it comes to bags, they were a prime focal point of the show. Perhaps even more so than we saw in the Louis Vuitton Women’s Cruise 2024 collection (Read: Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Handbags: A Life Aquatic). The show consisted of 84 looks in total – and only a very small handful were complete without a bag. There was a vast array of sized bags on the runway. From micro bag charms to small crossbody bags, to maxi duffles, and even oversized trunks that literally had to be driven down the runway! It wouldn’t be an LV show without their timeless classics – updated versions of the iconic Alma GM, Keepall, Speedy, and Trunks were all very much present. Bags were in abundance and most definitely in the spotlight. 

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

Let’s take a closer look at these new Louis Vuitton bags… And who’s to say they’re exclusively for men?

Bold and Bright: The Colored Leather Monogram 

Pharrell offered a hot take on the classic monogram. This time around, the timeless Keepall and Speedy are reimagined in vibrant pops of color.

Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton

However, there’s a luxurious twist – moving away from the classic canvas Pharrell created an all-leather variation of this iconic style. The luxe alternative is crafted in super slouchy calfskin and has a relaxed feel, and unlike the icon, these have a seam down the center of the base.  Pharrell’s hot take on the classic Speedy was inspired by the replica bags you often find at Canal Street, he told the New York Times:

“I want to give you the same experience that you get when you to Canal Street, a place that has appropriated the house for decades, right? Let’s reverse it. Let’s get inspired by the fact that they’ll make some colorways that the house has never made. But then let’s actually make it the finest of leather.”

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

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Image courtesy: @lv_collectibles

The Speedy Bandoulière is the ‘upgraded’ leather variation that features all the iconic features of the original bags. Seen on the runway in red, yellow, green, blue, and orange (more about the orange later…) – we’re spoiled for choice. It has been reported that the size 25 will retail for approximately €7,500 – however, this is yet to be confirmed by Louis Vuitton. 

Classic canvas hasn’t been forgotten though! The Speedy’s seen on the runway without the Bandoulière are crafted in colored canvas rather than leather. The colored canvas Speedy 25 will retail for approximately €2,500 (TBC).

This new colorful range is available in multiple sizes from the 25 to oversized 40 – these bright and bold speedy’s are happy, indeed!

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

The last Speedy to walk the runway was this limited soft leather vibrant orange Speedy 40. This elevated all-leather Speedy 40 is a hot collector’s item,  exclusively available to members of the ‘VIA Treasure Trunk’ NFT community (Read: Louis Vuitton’s Newest Treasure is a $41,600 NFT Trunk. Only 200 pieces will be available. The bag retails for an eye-watering €9000. 

Daring Damier

First, we see the all-new Damoflage, next it’s the oversized and vibrantly colored classic Damier motif.

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

This oversized variation of LV’s classic checkerboard is bright and bold – for all the right reasons. The refreshing new colorways are vibrant pops of color, including orange, electric blue, green, yellow, and red.

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

Models showcased this new Damier print in various styles. Including small shoulder bags, the iconic LV bum bag, the classic Speedy, backpacks, and oversized totes.

Pixelated Patterns

Fashion-forward Pharrell has seen the future – and it’s for sure digitized. Famous for their Monogram and Damier patterns, LV’s most iconic motifs have had a revamp. These pixelated and modernized patterns, called “digitized Damoflage,” were featured heavily on the runway, and screamed Minecraft! Although graphic in design – the pixelated motifs are recognizable to any LV lover.

Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton

Damoflage

First, we saw the digitized “ Damoflage” motif print – sports-luxe style, this earth-toned camo featured heavily on various bags. Everything from mini trunks and Keepall’s too oversized luggage pieces had the Damoflage treatment. 

Image courtesy: @vision_meets_design

The all-new pixelated, cubic pattern is a collaboration with U.S. based pixel-artist known as E.T. Sharing his thoughts with NYT on the latest motifs, Pharrell said: 

“With the Damier, naturally, it presents like a chessboard, and so we use the squares of the chessboard as a sense of, like, pixelation, and we did everything from artistic motifs to one that I’m very proud of, which is Damoflage”

Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton

Pharrell has already stated that the pixelated Damoflage is likely to make a reappearance in future collections, “Every season it’s going to be a different colorway,” he told NYT.

Minecraft Madness

The Minecraft-inspired madness continued, with the Alma GM. The much-loved Alma’s graphic makeover was neither camo nor Damier – but a pixelated design of the Seine River. A true homage to the fashion capital.

Image courtesy: @vision_meets_design

Metallic Monogram

Metallics featured heavily in this men’s collection. From understated metallic Monogram details on leather bags to big and bold copper trunks – metallics are certainly here to stay.

Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk

Embossed, understated, and glistening in gold – laid-back leather bags are adorned with gold or silver Monogram detailing. Reminiscent of a super luxe paper grocery bag – this slouchy clutch bag has the right amount of edge. Contrasting with the soft and supple leather, this new metallic Monogram stands out for all the right reasons. 

Cool Copper

Copper bags in all shapes and sizes glistened on the golden runway. The Alma, Keepall, Handle Soft Trunk Bag, and Malle Trunk have all been given a metallic makeover this season.

Image courtesy: The Impression

The bags came in a Monogram, with a high gloss and high shine. The material is reminiscent of LV’s classic variation of patent leather – the Vernis style finish. All bags are completed with matching copper hardware – this elevated monogram certainly makes a statement. Trunks in this copper colorway appeared to have a metal finish. 

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Image courtesy: @lv_collectibles

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

Opulent Pearls

 Several pearl-encrusted and embellished bags graced the runway, displaying subtle Chanel influences. From dainty strap detailing, to full embellishment – their pearly presence didn’t go unnoticed. Pharrell himself is no stranger to Chanel – and has an extensive relationship and long-term collaboration with the French fashion house. Let’s not forget the Chanel Pharrell collection launched in 2019 (Read: Chanel x Pharrell: Bags from Chanel’s Unisex Collection)… So perhaps we shouldn’t be surprised.

Image courtesy: @mattd74

Small and mini bags including the much-loved Soft Trunk featured pearl embellished shoulder straps, while others came complete with full pearl top handles. Meanwhile, the Keepall glistened on the runway in full-on pearl-embellished glory. For this bag, the Damier motif was transformed into a crystal and pearl-adorned show-stopper.

Image courtesy: @hommesthailand

Everyday Exotics 

Exotics graced our presence during this runway. Crafted in muted, and natural tones including khaki, sage green, and deep-inky teal tones – croc made an understated impact. Perhaps consider it Pharrell’s contribution to stealth wealth; you know it’s going to be expensive.

Image courtesy: @hommesthailand

Image courtesy: @hommesthailand

Utilitarian in design – the exotic bags are functional and fashion-forward. We saw backpacks – similar in design to the coveted Christopher MM variation. Additionally, oversized bowling bags and smaller crossbody are featured in this bold and exotic finish. 

The Speedy had a full Croc makeover too. Featuring on the runway in a vibrant yellow Monogram, the Speedy 35 is elevated in all-over croc embossing, including the vachetta leather. Complete with a bandouliere strap and chunky chain. 

Image courtesy: @mensjournalonline

Timeless Trunks

Much like any Louis Vuitton show, the runway was filled with timeless trunks. This time around, they featured futuristic finishes. Ranging from the petit Soft Trunk to the incredibly oversized luggage trunks which had to be driven down the runway! LV’s heritage pieces were some of the stars of the show. 

Image courtesy: @mattd74

The all-new pixelated Damoflage print was prominent in many trunk styles. A vast stack of luxurious luggage was presented, as well as smaller crossbody bags. Even a trunk that showcased  LV sneakers in a museum-like display case graced the runway.

Image courtesy: @vision_meets_design

Image courtesy: The Impression

Models showcased trunks made in the Vernis style finish, which almost appeared as if they were crafted from metal. These trunks came in different sizes, including smaller vanity-style ones that had the classic Monogram print and were handheld. There were also several very large trunks that were so big that they required their own personal mode of transport!

Image courtesy: @lv_collectibles

Image courtesy: @lv_collectibles

The Luxe Carrier Bag 

It’s not just any carrier bag – it’s the iconic Imperial Saffron and blue Louis Vuitton paper carrier bag, reimagined into a luxe leather variation. 

Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk

Maintaining all the characteristics of the Louis Vuitton shopping bag that so many of us are all too familiar with, this ultra-luxurious version is certainly a must-have for many LV lovers.

Image courtesy: The Impression

The Collectors Pieces

An LV show is never complete without some show-stopping limited bags. Pharrell did not let us down…

Image courtesy: @hommesthailand

And let’s not forget about the Boat bag! Similar in design to that of the ‘Airplane’ bag that took off during Virgil Ablohs’s menswear Fall/Winter 2021 runway, and the Nigo collaboration ‘Duck’ bag released in November 2021. LV continues to release these novelties and highly collectible bags.

The Boat bag is crafted in classic Monogram canvas and is complete with two top handles. Perhaps reminiscent of the boats on the Seine in Paris – this bag is set to make waves amongst LV collectors around the world.

Image courtesy: @harpersbazaarhk

Reminiscent of the LV X NBA collection, released in 2022 – the basketball is back. This time round, it’s crafted in smooth black leather with a subtle embossed silver LV monogram. 

Published: June 21st, 2023
Updated: June 22nd, 2023

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