The Complete Guide to Hermès Hardware

Gold on gold. Palladium against black. Brushed, polished, engraved, or set with diamonds. On an Hermès bag, hardware is more than a functional detail — its finish can dramatically alter the character of a design. The touret and plaque may define the familiar silhouette of a Birkin or Kelly, but whether those details gleam, shimmer, or glow can be just as significant. From classic polished metals to brushed and guilloché treatments, here’s a closer look at the many finishes of Hermès hardware.

Gold hardware, often referred to as GHW, is one of Hermès’ most iconic hardware options, prized for its warm, luminous finish. Hermès generally uses 18-karat Gold plating across its bags, while select rare styles and Special Order creations have also been produced with 24-karat Gold. The rich yellow tone brings a classic warmth to the house’s leathers, making it a favorite among collectors.

Palladium, abbreviated as PHW, is a precious metal with a bright, high-shine, silvery appearance. Its cool, crisp tone creates a striking contrast against vivid leathers while pairing seamlessly with neutral shades. Often associated with a more casual, understated look, palladium also is frequently used for Hermès’ most exclusive Blue Box creations.

With its soft champagne-gold tone, Permabrass sits somewhere between the warmth of traditional Gold and the cooler appearance of Palladium. Its muted golden hue has become a staple, subtly complementing deeper blues, greens, and earthy shades. Once largely associated with Special Orders and other limited configurations, Permabrass has become increasingly visible on select regular-production styles in recent seasons such as the Arçon.

Rose Gold hardware brings a subtle pink warmth to the traditional gold palette. The blush-toned metal offers a softer alternative to classic yellow Gold hardware and looks particularly elegant against neutral, blush, and pastel leathers. First introduced on Hermès bags in 2018, RGHW is a relatively recent addition to the house’s hardware repertoire, prized for its refined, contemporary feel.

Brushed Gold takes the warmth of traditional gold and tempers its shine with a finely textured, satin-like surface. Rather than reflecting light, the brushed treatment diffuses it, creating a softer appearance. The result feels modern while retaining the warmth of gold. Brushed Gold is considerably less common than its polished counterpart and has traditionally been associated with limited hardware configurations and Special Orders.

Brushed Palladium applies the same satin treatment to the cooler-toned metal. Fine, brush-like scratches run across the surface, softening the shine and giving it a matte, satin-like finish. The result is a toned-down take on classic PHW.

For those who can’t choose between Gold and Palladium, Hermès offers a little of both. Electrum hardware combines the two metals across different components of the bag, creating a distinctive mixed-metal effect. On the Kelly the touret and rivets are finished in Gold, while the plaque, pontet, four clou, clochette, and shoulder-strap clasps feature Palladium. The result is a balanced combination of warm and cool tones that feels unexpected yet remarkably versatile. 

Ruthenium hardware is distinguished by its deep, smoky-gray appearance, sitting somewhere between charcoal and gunmetal. As another platinum-group metal, Ruthenium has a darker, deeper tone than to the bright finish of Palladium. Its distinctively subdued tone gives Hermès bags a contemporary, slightly edgier character.

Unlike Gold, Palladium, or Ruthenium, PVD is not a metal but a coating process. Short for Physical Vapor Deposition, the technique deposits a thin coating onto the hardware, producing the intensely dark, almost black appearance associated with Hermès’ iconic So Black bags. Introduced by Jean Paul Gaultier during his tenure at Hermès, the So Black line created a striking monochromatic effect by pairing black PVD-coated hardware with black leather. 

Guilloché is a decorative treatment rather than a separate metal. The surface of the hardware is engraved with a precise, repeating pattern, creating intricate texture across what would otherwise be a smooth finish. As the pattern catches the light, it produces a subtle shimmer that gives the hardware an almost jewelry-like quality. Particularly rare within the Hermès handbag world, guilloché is prized by collectors for its intricate detailing and distinctive appearance.

Enamel lacquer introduces color and gloss to selected Hermès hardware, most famously the signature H clasp of the Constance. Rather than leaving the metal entirely exposed, the lacquered surface adds another layer of color and shine to the design. It transforms a functional piece of hardware into a decorative detail, with the colored finish either complementing or contrasting with the leather.

Reserved for the most extraordinary Hermès creations, diamond hardware takes the house’s hardware firmly into fine-jewelry territory. Diamonds are set into the hardware, turning the bag’s familiar functional details into dazzling embellishments. It is exceptionally rare and is most famously encountered on some of Hermès’ finest exotic creations, including the highly elusive Himalaya Birkin and Kelly. 

Thank you FASHIONPHILE for access to great leather close ups.

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