Hermès Chèvre Leather: What They Don’t Tell You

Editors Update: November 24, 2024

Chèvre leather, renowned for its lightweight feel, sheen, and vibrant color absorption, is a standout in Hermès collections. Its signature grain and visible spine make it ideal for smaller bags and SLGs. Among its variations, Chamkila and Chamkilight offer unique qualities that distinguish them within the chèvre family.

Chamkila vs. Chamkilight: What Makes These Chèvre Variants Stand Out?

Chamkila, introduced in 2018, features a smooth, small grain and a high shine. The name “Chamkila,” meaning “shiny” in Hindi, reflects the leather’s brilliant, glossy finish. Originating from India, where most chèvre leather is sourced, Chamkila is recognized for its refined, polished look. The spine, while less pronounced than in other types like Mysore, adds a subtle yet distinctive touch to the leather’s overall texture.

Chamkilight, currently understood to be a premium variation, is reserved for smaller bags and SLGs. While more details are still being explored, it is known to be seen on limited-edition releases, particularly in the Doré collection. Notably, the Constance 18 and Mini Kelly II have both been crafted in Chamkilight leather, which enhances its chèvre sheen with a metallic finish, further elevating its luxurious appearance.

Read also: Hermès Doré: A Diwali Reveal Draped in Gold

Chamkila Chèvre Rose Pop Mini Kelly

Chamkilight Chèvre Doré Mini Kelly

Your Chèvre Leather Questions, Answered!

Hermès Chèvre leather often sparks curiosity, with collectors and enthusiasts eager to know more about its unique qualities and care. To address some of the most common questions, here’s a helpful Q&A that delves into the finer details of this luxurious leather. 

Is this a good everyday leather compared to Epsom or Togo?

Chèvre leather is beautiful but may not be the best choice for a workhorse bag. It is more prone to scratching, especially the newer Chèvre skins. My older special order pieces, made from thicker, heartier leather, show less wear, while my more recent ones have picked up more visible scratches. While Epsom also scratches, it’s more durable and better suited for daily use. Togo, in my opinion, is the best leather for an everyday bag due to its resilience and resistance to wear.

Why is Chèvre your favorite?

I love the sheen of Chèvre leather, which gives the bags a unique, elegant appearance. The distinctive spine that runs down the center of the bag, with its vertical grain, adds to its appeal. Another reason I adore it is that Chèvre is typically only available as a special order, which makes it feel exclusive. You’ll find many Mini K20s in Chèvre, but larger sizes outside of special orders are rare. I also find Chèvre leather to be lighter in weight compared to other Hermès leathers.

Is Chèvre limited edition or always part of the collection?

Chèvre leather is always available for special orders, and it frequently appears in several non-quota bags, such as the Constance, Bolide, and many SLGs. While it’s rare to find a Chèvre leather quota bag that isn’t a special order, it’s not impossible. If you’re referring specifically to Doré Chèvre, however, that is indeed a limited edition finish.

Read also: Guide to Hermès Special Orders in 2024

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How can I identify the Chèvre spine?

Many Chèvre bags feature a visible spine—a central strip of changed grain running down the center. However, not all bags have this. For example, many Mini Kelly 20s don’t have the spine. Why? My theory is that Hermès cuts the skins to maximize production, which may result in some bags missing the spine. Additionally, this technique allows them to use leftover skin from larger bags where the spine is present. This is likely a cost-saving strategy. In my experience, my black Mini Kelly was cut horizontally, and my Mushroom Mini has a less defined spine—but it’s still there, I think! The absence of a spine doesn’t make the bag less desirable; in fact, some people may even prefer not to have it. Ultimately, it’s all about personal preference, but I think it’s worth being aware of this when considering a purchase.

Are bags with Chèvre leather more valuable than other leathers?

Not necessarily. In general, Chèvre bags aren’t more valuable than those made from other leathers. However, limited edition pieces—such as those in Doré or special orders—could certainly command higher prices due to their rarity. This applies to any leather, really, as rarity often increases value.

Do Chèvre leather bags lose their shape over time?

Yes, they can, but this applies to all leathers depending on how a bag is used and cared for. There are many factors at play when it comes to a bag’s aging. I’ve noticed that my older Chèvre pieces, made from thicker, more mature skins, tend to maintain their shape better than newer ones.

What was your first experience with a Chèvre bag? Which bag converted you into a Chèvre lover?

Ironically, my first Chèvre bag came to me before I even knew much about this type of leather. It was a stunning 5P pink Birkin 25 with gold hardware—a “push offer” bag that wasn’t a special order. I had no idea at the time how rare and special the Chèvre leather was, but that bag definitely set me on the path to becoming a true Chèvre lover.

What’s the durability of Chèvre leather like?

Chèvre is a fantastic leather, but it does require some tolerance for dents and scratches, especially when compared to more robust leathers like Togo or Epsom. However, Chèvre is still durable enough for daily use—I travel with my Chèvre bags without issue. Just be mindful of how they are handled. I’ve found that Doré Chèvre, in particular, can be a bit more delicate than standard Chèvre. As long as you use your bags thoughtfully, they’ll hold up beautifully over time.

How many Chèvre bags do you own? How many have a spine?

Believe it or not, I don’t keep track of how many bags I own—I just enjoy them! I do have several Chèvre bags, including newer pieces in Chamkilight and Chamkila leather. I’ve been researching the differences in these newer variations, but I don’t yet have a concrete answer. If anyone has more information on them, please share!

This Q/A series continues today on @pursebop. 

Original article date: April 10th, 2020. 

It took some nerve for me to venture into my handbag armoire. I haven’t dared go near it for well over three weeks. With nowhere to go, and the mood far from planning outfits, I guess it’s safe to say I just took a bag break. We’ve been actively reporting Coronavirus-related luxury news, something we can clearly see you value in these turbulent times. But of late, I confess I’ve been inspired by and enjoying several fellow handbag fashionistas who have been photographing their collections and generating flashbacks of happier times. It’s a sort of “healthy distraction”. 

Today, as I peeked through the dust bags,  I had a déjá vu of a discussion I alluded to a few months ago. Back in December, I revealed my special order Birkin 30 in black Chevre with rose extreme interior (read: Hermès Reveal: The Next Step in My Special Order Journey).

For those of you that read my reveal you might remember the observation on the different types of chevre leather that I have been able to discover over the years. Simply, not all chèvre is the same. 

Here she is… the culmination of a long time dream. Black chèvre with rose extreme lining revealed on a flight to Zurich in Dec 2019.

The new Birkin 30 in noir presents two notable points to discuss.

First and foremost I’d like to shed some light on the differentiating qualities between my two relatively new special order beauties. Before I sat down to pen this short article, I shot a quick video. If I may digress, in fact no article was intended, only the video and photos for IG, but as I eased into the mood, I thought to myself, why not? I highly urge you to pop over to @pursebop on Instagram to see exactly what I’m about to narrate to you here.  Truthfully, the pictures don’t do justice to my observations and there aren’t many taken to highlight just that. 

The discussion revolves around these noir chèvre bags in my collection.

So let’s dive right in. The chevre quality in the Birkin is definitely more matte in texture. It actually feels thicker and in some way perhaps more resilient. At first, and in comparison to my other chevre bags, I wasn’t too thrilled with this. However, I have come to appreciate and admire these qualities in the short time I have had this Birkin. 

Heartier texture of chèvre.

Now, my sellier chevre Kelly 25 in noir is a whole different story. And although it might be one of the holy grails of my collection, it’s turned out to be quite a delicate baby. If you recall, my first experience with chèvre was the bubblegum pink Birkin 25 and it certainly didn’t exhibit any of these delicate qualities. Then came my first special order – the blue hydra and rose Jaipur chevre B30. Again, my SO was hearty rather than delicate. In addition, neither bag had a shiny texture.

Bubblegum pink chèvre B25, read more here.

Blue Hydra B 30, read more here

Ok… let’s go back to talking about the Kelly 25: from the video you will see it’s notably shinier in texture and from its tender wounds, it would seem more delicate. I must premise the video.. by telling you that the scars are very noticeable because of the videography. In real life, the marks are slightly evident, but that still really bothers my neat freak personality. Please note, I didn’t take this Kelly 25 into battle, lol. It was used just as any other bag. In fact, it was probably treated more gently than some of the others since it’s newer and smaller. I’m especially careful during that early admiration stage. And the petite stature ensures a more ladylike activity (so not really sure where the battle scars are coming from, lol).

Kelly 25 chèvre in noir and rose pourpre. Read more here.

When this beautiful Kelly was first shown to me, a perfect back. Read more here.

I tend to be a little OCD with my bags yet I do make it a point to enjoy them. Having said that, I am a little disappointed that one of my favorites is no longer in the “absolutely perfect” category. In fact, the silver lining of the scars will be a license to use and enjoy her even more — in other words less babying. 

Black beauties that came out for the video taping at @pursebop. Click photo to access video.

Kelly 25 noir chèvre. Click photo for full video.

Here’s my obvious and tentative conclusion: 

Chèvre leather can come in many variations (like any skin can…).  Perhaps certain skins come from more mature animals offering more resilient characteristics and some younger animals perhaps making the skin more tender and subject to more bruising. Whatever the case, I am still a die hard chèvre fan!

I’m calling on all chèvre lovers to share their insight, experience and knowledge on the subject.  Let’s take this a step further… share your chèvre babies on Instagram with the hashtag #hermeschevretalkonpursebop  so we can all drool. 

What do these for orange boxes have in common? Visit @pursebop Instagram to find out.

Published: November 24th, 2024
Updated: November 24th, 2024

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